While some supermarkets are becoming a little more adventurous in their selection of apples, there are many more interesting varieties to be had than the Goldens and Granny Smiths out there. Thomas Jefferson could have told you that...

Here are some, with how they taste, and where to pick them:

Magnolia, Paradise, Fuji, York: very sweet and crisp

Westfield-Seek-No-Further, Mutsu: good for desserts

Cortland: juicy

Black Amish: extremely tart

Grimes Golden: coriander-scented

Idared: good for apple butter

Macoun: good for pies

Newton Pippin: keeps well

Nittany, Mountaineer: crunchy

To get driving directions to the orchards, call

Homestead Farm, 301 977 3761 (Fuji);

Mountain Green Farm, 703 675 3219 (Mutsu, Arkansas Black, Grimes Golden, Fuji, Jonagold);

Larriland Farm, 410 489 7034 (Macoun, Magnolia Gold, Idared);

Linden Vineyards & Orchard, 703 364 1997 (Esopus Spitzenburg, Black Amish, Ashmead's Kernel, Westfield-Seek-No-Further).

To taste more than 80 varieties of new and antique specialty apples grown in the Midwest, order a Sampler Box of 12 different kinds, from Applesource, 217 245 7589. Call for a brochure to make your selection.

Cinnamon, cloves and ginger are all familiar flavorings for cooked applies. But a saying in the north of England goes, "Apple pie without the cheese is like a kiss without the squeeze." When you next bake an apple pie, try serving it with a block of good Cheddar on the table. There are even British recipes that incorporate cheese into the pastry. Or you could just stick to the English classic - custard. But make a Crème Anglaise instead for greater luxury.

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