There's no shortage of Asia food markets round the greater Washington area. While some are distinguished by their extensive supplies, others, like Apsara, are worth tracking down if you're an Asian food novice and need advice on how to cook whatever that weird stuff over there is.

Apsara Gourmet Oriental Food Market has been running for 21 years. Angela Doroteo is its latest owner. She took it over from her uncle when he retired, but aside from having to hump heavy boxes of fresh produce from the bag of her car herself, little has changed. 

The stock is primarily Thai. There are fresh rice noodles in the cold cabinet and shelves and shelves of dried ones, along with a huge array of bottled sauces and curry gravies. The choice of fresh produce is small but useful. In the season for champagne mangoes (the very best for flavor without fiber) she keeps a large supply of crates of them. "If it is wrinkly at the fat end," she advises, "don't walk away. This is when they are at their sweetest."

For me, it's the helpfulness not just of the staff but also of other shoppers for whom an Asian meal is the daily norm that makes this market worth a visit. Don't be shy about asking questions. They aren't.

Apsara Gourmet Oriental Food Market, 291 Sunset Park Dr, Herndon, 703 471 9194.

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