Breads - a good chew

It doesn't seem so long ago when the only bread available in Washington came sliced in cellophane packages. Now you can't move for choice among loaves studded with anything from olives, raisins and walnuts, to cheese, tomatoes and herbs. Sometimes, though, you wonder if the humble loaf hasn’t got a bit above itself. Where can you buy good honest brown bread?

Sometimes all you want is something good and simple. Along with brown bread enthusiasts, the local German community knows, that for a chewy oatmeal or sesame covered six-grain, German rye, pumpernickel, challah or a New York bagel to go to Breads Unlimited, who have been making real bread since long before bakeries became fashionable meeting places. Their French boules and baguettes are less good, however. Bradley Shopping Center, Arlington Rd, Bethesda, 301 656 2340, and 20630 Ashburn Road, Suite 189, Ashburn, VA, 571 223 2465.

For other German favorites, the Heidelberg Pastry Shoppe, 2150 N. Culpeper St, Arlington, 703 527 8394, bake a Black Forest bread.

Firehook Bakery bakes Landbrot, a dense, dark German bread that goes well with cream cheese and smoked salmon. At 1909 Q St NW, 202 588 9296; 912 17th St NW, 202 429 2253; 3411 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 362 2253; 106 N. Lee St, Alexandria, 703 519 7681(fax).

The European Bazaar, 1488-I Rockville Pike, 301 230 9371, stocks several Russian breads make in New York, among them Bardavinski bread.

Cenan's Bakery, 122 Branch Rd SE, Vienna, 703 242 0070, bakes a wide range of good European breads. The Bread House, 1109 W. Broad St, Falls Church, 703 237 3717 belongs to a Yugoslav family of bakers. It specializes in European breads, as well as breakfast pastries, cakes and pies. It also sells coffee, espresso, hot tea, and hot chocolate to go, and a selection of sandwiches.

A delicious English Muffin Bread is made by Big Sky Bread in Baltimore. As its name suggests, it's a big slice of muffin to toast. And branches of Giant sell it. Call 410 662 6070 for stockists.

Best Buns Bread Company on South 28th Street, Arlington, next door to and owned by The Carlyle Grand Cafe, is a terrific source for good bread and rolls.

Heller's Bakery will bake you special rolls to order, should you have a fancy for making mini hamburgers, for instance. 3221 Mount Pleasant Street NW, 202 265 1169.

The Swiss Bakery, 9536 Old Keene Mill Rd, Burke, VA, 703 569 3670, bakes a wide range of loaves from the familiar baguette to not-so-familiar Swiss specialty breads like St. Galler, Swiss Army Pumpernickel and Swiss Mountain Health. It also sells cakes, chocolates, and Swiss specialties.

Eva Jaatmaa is a Swedish woman living in Frederick who started a business baking a range of goods 50 percent of which are Scandinavian. During the summer, you'll find her on Saturdays at the Rockville Farmer's Market. And on line at www.trailgarden.com

Good zaatar, a Middle East flat bread topped with thyme, sumac and sesame, good for dipping into hummus or turning into a pizza, is sold at the Mediterranean Bakery, 352 S. Pickett St, Alexandria, 703 751 0030.

The Afghan Bread bakery turns out daily 3000 of those long flat ridged loaves that look like giant tongues. Abdul Karim and Mustafa Nazary run it, at 8532-Q Terminal Rd, Newington, 703 550 0422, but its breads can be found in supermarkets and groceries throughout the area. While in Afghanistan it is eaten warm for breakfast with hard mountain cheese or at other meals with rice, chicken or goat dishes, it makes a change from sandwich bread and a good soft base for home-made pizza.

Afghan nan and rogani breads are at Azim Akram's Afghan Market, 5713A Edsall Rd, Alexandria, 703 212 9529.

If you'd like to learn how to bake your own challah bread, call Manfred Loeb at the Jewish Community Center, 301 881 0100.

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