Chili is an American dish that pits serious enthusiasts against each other, everyone swearing by their own secret recipe. (Dark chocolate seems a popular ingredient for enducing a smoothness to the sauce.)

For true aficianados, there are not only several websites, with the International Chili Society among the most prominent, at least two appreciation societies and a magazine, but numerous chili cook-offs nationwide (one sponsored by DC101, the capital's rock radio station). For the monthly Terlingua Trails newsletter and cook-off calendar of The Chili Appreciation Society, write to PO Box 3204, Sierra Vista, AZ 85636.

Ben's Chili Bowl, 1213 U St NW, 202 667 0909 is the lunch counter that time forgot - a real Washington institution. With scrapple, eggs, corned beef hash and good chili, too.

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