Christmas - dreaming of a different one

Britain
The Christmas cracker is a centrepiece of the British Christmas table. It was invented in 1846 by Thomas Smith, still one of the largest manufacturers, with supplies on sale here at The British Connection, 119 S. Royal Street, Alexandria, 703 836 8181. 

He had seen French bonbons, sugared almonds wrapped in twisted tissue paper, on a visit to Paris and decided to do the same with candies for Christmas. A few years later, he added mottos, then, around 1860, the banger. When rival manufacturers saw their popularity, they copied his idea. So Smith moved on, switching his candy for a tiny gift. The paper hat was included at the beginning of the 20th century and two decades later, riddles and jokes replaced the mottos.

The British eat mincepies which have absolutely nothing to do with meat, apart from the beef suet which was the fat that preserved the mix of chopped dried fruits, nuts and alcohol that fills the little pies. You can buy mincepies ready made at English stores like The British Connection, or larger pies at Heller's Bakery. Christmas puddings, weighty steamed fruit sponge puddings which should come to the table flaming and have various symbolic good luck charms and coins buried inside them, can be found at Rodmans and larger Giants.

Italy
Italians love Omino di Neve, a snowman-shaped cake filled with hazelnuts and cream and covered in white chocolate. Dolce al Limoncello, another favorite, is a lemon-shaped cake from Capri. Discover these, along with Panettone, at The Italian Store, 3123 Lee Hwy, Arlington, 703 528 6266. At Vignola Pasta Gourmet, you'll find the special candies Italians offer at Christmas - Arrotolata, nougat rolled with nuts and chocolate, and Croccante, an almond brittle. 113-A N. Washington St, Rockville, 301 340 2350.The Italian Store also sells them.

France
The French celebrate with Bûche de Noel, a rich chocolate Yule log cake. If you'd like one delivered with a song, call The Singing Baker, 202 547 2253. Jim Plankenhorn will arrive at your door in full throat with your cake and a baritone rendition of a Christmas melody.

Portugal
Portugal's traditional Christmas cake is Bolo Rei, a dense fruit cake full of candied peaches, cherries, oranges and nuts, soused in port. Find it at European Market, 17605 Redland Rd, Rockville, 301 417 0788.

Germany
Gingerbread houses are essential to a Northern European Christmas. Creative Cakes in Silver Spring, 301 587 1599, make them to order. To build one yourself, buy molds through the Williams-Sonoma catalogue, 800 541 2233, or take lessons, with your children, from Linda C. White, 202 291 0076.

Switzerland
The Swiss bake Christmas cookies. Mailaenderli, lemon-flavored, cross-shaped cookies, Madelkonfeckt, cherry-topped marzipan cookies, and Zimststerne, star-shaped cinnamon-and-almond cookies are all available at Randolph, 4500 Lee Highway, Arlington, 703 243 0070.

Jamaica
At Christmas time in Jamaica, a traditional black cake is baked in which the dried fruits have been soaking in alcohol since the previous Christmas. Denevol Samuels is faithful to the tradition, filling his grandmother's recipe for West Indian Black Cake with fruits that have wallowed for twelve months in cognac, wine, and white Jamaican rum. The cake is iced with blackened caramel or, if you prefer, a traditional white royal icing. Order at least two days in advance, from Tropical Desserts 82 Q St SW, 202 488 4647.

To bake your own Black Cake, buy the Jamaican burnt sugar you'll need for the icing from Caribbean Market at 7505 New Hampshire Ave, Langley Park, 301 439 5288. Nigella Lawson offers a recipe in "How To Be A Domestic Goddess."

Kwansaa
Sisters Janet Buckhalter and Shadonna Smith make a celebratory sheet cake for Kwansaa, a poundcake covered in red, black and green buttercream, iced in Ashante motifs. Call 202 397 4003.

Your own cake celebration...
Find seasonal cookie cutters, colored sugars and  frosting dyes in Maryland at Cakes Plus, 3325 Corridor Market Place, Laurel, 301 490 3600; Cakes 'n Things, Waldorf Shoppers World, Waldorf, 301 843 5623; in Virginia at Fran's Cake and Candy Supplies, 10396 Willard Way, Fairfax, 703 352 1471; Marlene's Cake Candy and Party Supplies, 356 S. Pickett St, Alexandria, 703 370 3301.

Connie Schweizer, of Connie's Cake Creations, 703 860 2661, will decorate a half sheet as pretty as a picture, with a seasonal illustration. So will Patti Collette of Patty Cakes, 703 354 0677.

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