Duck and goose, full of dark flavor, make a sumptuous change from chicken and turkey and their carcasses provide a rich soup stock.

Duck breasts for magrets and vacuum-packed duck confit, along with other duck products like the contentious foie gras of both duck and goose, are sold by D'Artagnan, 800 327 8426, who supply most of the local restaurants. Go to them on-line, or find some of their items like confit leg of duck and magret at Dean & DeLuca or Brookville Market.

They also sell frozen geese to order.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras is the other duck and goose product purveyor, found on line. Both of these also sell foie gras, fresh and prepared.

Wegmans in Centerville and Sterling, sells vacuum-packed fresh foie gras, along with vacuum-packed confit de canard. To make your own duck confit at a reasonable price, shop at one of the Asian supermarkets, like Maxim's in Rockville, or H Mart, for the frozen fowl. But my own experiments have found the frozen bird a little thin on meat. (If you see it there fresh, go for it.) Spending the extra for a frozen duck from Whole Foods is worth it. Great Wall Supermarket, 2982 Gallows Rd., Merrifield, VA, 703 208 3320, sells it fresh, frozen, cured and smoked.

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