If you've bought a bratwurst or other sausage from The German Gourmet, my favorite market this week, try making this grain mustard to go with it. I don't know about you, but I had sacks of kalonji black mustard seed festering in my store cupboard. Now I don't - I have jars of home-made mustard instead.

The recipe comes from Saveur, issue 117 and makes a good deal more than the 3 1/2 cups it says.

1 12-ounce bottle Guinness Extra Stout
1 1/2 cups (10 ounces) brown mustard seeds
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground cloves, ground nutmet, ground allspice

Combine everything in a non-reactive bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1-2 days so the mustard seeds soften and the flavors meld. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a food processor and process, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, until the seeds are coarsely ground and the mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. (I did this for far longer - more like 8 minutes.) Refrigerate overnight and use immediately or refrigerate for up to 6 months. (The flavor of the mustard will mellow as the condiment ages.)