Fish - fresh or not so fresh?

Once upon a time, fishmongers would cut fish to order from whole fish, so the customer could be sure, by the clarity of its eyes, the firmness of flesh and the color of its gills, of the freshness of the fish.

Unless a fish is small enough to be a one-person dish, most supermarkets in Washington sell fish already cut. So you should ask to sniff your fish before you buy if you are in any doubts. I’ve twice had to take back fish to Whole Foods when that ammonia smell has wafted from the wrapping once I got it home.

But there are exceptions to the ready-filleted rule – most of them, the ethnic stores around the area serving customers who have grown up on fish more than meat.

One of the best suppliers of fresh fish is The Fishery Seafood Market, 5509 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 686 1068, run by a Korean family. It’s a bit pricier than some, but the fish is impeccable.

BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant, 4883 MacArthur Blvd NW, 202 342 9101, sources its fish from small fisheries. Some of its fish is wild, some raised by acquaculture. Fishmonger Danny Weinstein, however, disputes the word 'sustainable' as not being in the dictionary. 'Geek' wasn't accepted for a while either, though everyone knew what it meant. He uses this as an explanation for sometimes selling fish that are definitely not sustainable, like, in the early days, Chilean seabass, and, currently, swordfish. Make your own judgement call. Prices aren't cheap here either.

Cannon's Seafood, 1065 31st St NW, 202 337 8366, and 762-A Walker Rd, Great Falls, 703 759 4950 is an excellent source for fresh fish, particularly molluscs and crustaceans. They'll prepare oysters on ice for you and their shrimp is good.

Springfield Seafood Market, 6681-F Backlick Rd, Springfield, 703 569 2722, is an Asian family owned and operated fishmonger that's been in the area since 1983. The fish is of good quality and very fresh. Its Korean customers in particular wouldn't have it otherwise. Fresh fish and shellfish are seasonal but it also sells frozen seafood, like King Crab legs, Snow Crab legs and lobster meat. You can order party platters, a New England Clam Bake and a Lobster Dinner. The store is probably not in ardent pursuit of sustainable fish. 

Other sources for good fish are: Glen Echo Seafood, 7307 MacArthur Blvd, Bethesda, 301 229 2526 (which also sells great sushi next door), Eastern Market, on 7th St SE; Legal Seafood, 2020 K St NW, 202 496 1111. I don't find Cameron Seafood, 4831 Bethesda Ave, Bethesda, 301 951 1000 and six other locations nearly as reliable.

Any of these will generally cook whole salmon, crabs and lobster for you on request.

American Seafood in Arlington, behind the Lee Heights Center at 4550 Lee Highway, 703 522 8080, is a fishmonger in the old style. Owners Gary and Martha also sell fried, sauteed and grilled fish sandwiches, as well as a number of home-cooked dishes to take out.

In Bethesda is A & H Seafoods, 4960 Bethesda Ave, 301 986 9692, a seafood shop next door to the Bethesda Crab House selling whole fish and fillets (and cheap glazed terracotta baking dishes and jugs in various sizes). It looks a little murky inside, but is well patronized by the Spanish and Portuguese community for the fish that is flown in from Portugal. I've always thought it was fresh. But read on.

Fish like garopa, carapou, chocos, linguados, salmonetes, and sardines, flown in from Portugal to New York, picked up every Thursday and sold at Rockville's European Market, 17605 Redland Rd, 301 417 0788, used to be fresh. But now, sadly, eatWashingtonian John Martin Taylor says it’s all frozen. He has his own recommendation: "There's a Best Way market in Mt Pleasant on Mt Pleasant St where I've been buying fish. Really pretty fish, and I'm totally spoiled having moved here from Charleston and been in business with local fishermen for years (they sell my grits and cornmeal in their seafood shops on their docks)." (see his website to order them at hoppinJohns.com) "I've even gotten heads-on shrimp there, very fresh, at $4/lb."

Oriental supermarkets, like Lotte, 11790 Parklawn Dr, Rockville, 301 881 3355, and H Mart, 8103 Lee Hwy, Merrifield, 703 573 6300, and their branch in Wheaton on Georgia Ave, sell whole fresh fish, squid, molluscs and shellfish extremely cheaply. They will fillet your picks.

Daruma, a Japanese supermarket at 6931 Arlington Road, Bethesda, 301 654 8832, sells fresh tuna and fresh octopus ready for sushi preparation, but equally excellent for tuna carpaccio or grilling.

Then there are the stalls down at the municipal fish wharf at 1100 Maine Ave SW. Be vigilant, though, in hot weather and the days of the flies. To those who are nervous, I’d say if you are surrounded by customers who know their fish, from fish-eating nations like Portugal, Japan and Korea, feel confident.

At the fish wharf you'll find Pruitt Seafood, 202 554 2669, Custis & Brown, 202 484 0168; Jessie Taylor Seafood, 202 554 4173, and Captain White Seafood City, 202 484 2722.

Take your fish across the parking lot for filleting for a small sum per pound, at Virgo.

But if you want to learn more about sustainable fish farming and harvesting, click on any of the following:

Blue Ocean Institute: blueocean.org; Monterey Bay Aquarium: mbayaq.org; David Suzuki Foundation: davidsuzuki.org; Seafood Choices Alliance: aboutseafood.com.

Also, watch and listen to chef Barton Seaver of Hook discuss the safety of the fish farming business: http://news.medill.northwestern.edu/washington/news.aspx?id=72975

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