The closest large Greek community is in Baltimore, with its markets and restaurants. But Middle East markets stock plenty of Greek ingredients, and you can learn to cook it yourself.

Kefalotiri, Kasseri, Kefalograviera and Feta cheeses are stocked at Thomas Market, 2650 University Blvd West, Wheaton, 301 942 0839, along with orange peel-flavored loukanika sausages, pulses, halva, and the kind of roasted seeds and nuts familiar to anyone who has sat and drunk ouzo in an ouzeria.

Loukanika are also sold at Mediterranean Corner, 409 Maple Ave West, Vienna, 703 938 3663.

Look out in Middle Eastern markets for halloumi, about the only cheese in the world you can fry or grill without it turning into a puddle. Dust it with flour if you like before browning it gently in hot oil, and squeeze lemon over before serving.

For ready-made dishes, like spanakopita, dolmades, hummus, as well as loukanika, dried and cured meats, fresh cuts of lamb and beef, go to Aphrodite, 5886 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, 703 931 5055, which also has a good selection of cheeses and breads.

For a gyro pita sandwich and salad after you've stocked up, shop at the Greek Corner Market, 2460 Ennalls Ave, Wheaton, 301 929 8502.

Asadur's, 5536 Randolph Rd, Rockville, 301 770 5558, has a range of frozen Greek, Egyptian and Middle Eastern dishes, as well as fresh ingredients and Greek wines and coffee.

For classic Greek pastries and sweetmeats like galaktobouriko, Amphora Bakery, 401 Maple Ave West, Vienna, 703 281 5631, is the place. It also bakes Greek bread.

Zaatar, a flat bread topped with thyme, sumac and sesame, good for dipping into hummus or turning into a pizza, is sold at the Mediterranean Bakery, 352 S. Pickett St, Alexandria, 703 751 0030.

Simit Bakery on Pickett Rd and Main St, Fairfax, makes excellent spinach and cheese boreks.

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