The  cooking of the Indian sub-continent can seem complex. Lists of ingredients are often lengthy. But once you have them in stock, recipes are as simple as any other national cuisine. Find them at these markets, take any questions with you and ask for advice. You'll find store owners enthusiastic about helping.

Spice Lanka, is a small dry goods shop owned by a Sri Lankan just by the Derwood Post Office I was introduced by an eatWashingtonian, who wrote. "Being on an Indian food kick these days, when I went in to my delight they had numerous items I'd been looking for that are not available in regular stores! To wit: Moong dal, cardamon seeds (as opposed to just the pods), beautiful imported basmati rice for 99 cents/pound. Black mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and powder, and Atta flour for making chapaties, roti, etc. The rice and flours can be bought in small or large quantities. Everything seems priced well to me. In addition, in the not too distant future, they have a carryout for Sri Lankan food."

Surinder Matharoo of Bombay Food & Gifts, 11213-D Lee Hwy, Fairfax, 703 352 3663, runs a grocery for Indian fresh and dried ingredients. She sells take-out meals she makes herself, including the paneer, the whole-milk cheese that is delicious with spinach or peas and potatoes. You can eat her food in the cafe section of her grocery and clothing store.

Indian Spice and Appliances, 1065 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 703 532 1777, sells a wide range of Indian ingredients and a limited but useful range of fresh produce.

Raina's Indian Market, tucked nearby behind the Blockbuster on Wisteria & Great Seneca Highway in Germantown also comes recommended.

India A-1 Grocery, 4815-A Lee Hwy, Arlington, 703 841 9626, stocks fruits and herbs from bittergourd, Indian eggplant and long beans, to maa ginger, curry and methid leaves, guava and green banana, along with more familiar produce. Their range of specialties like fresh dhal vada, ladoo, South Indian snacks, and various pickles is broad. It also sells Indian cooking equipment, like a Sumeet, an extremely tough kitchen grinder specially designed for the needs of Asian cooking, along with pressure cookers, their spare parts and other useful aids.

Ranjan and Gita Chhibber of Pooja Spices, Pizza Plus & Hot Stuff Foods, 298 Sunset Park Dr, Herndon, 703 471 4378. started the modest Pooja's Spices, named for their daughter, 21 years ago, to sell hard-to-find ingredients to the growing Indian community. Spices like black sesame seed, fenugreek and more are sold in manageable quantities in sealed packs. In the freezer are ready-made foods from the Udupi and Deep brands, like frozen Dal Puri, Matar Paneer, Samosas and several one-course dishes. There are also blocks of Paneer cheese. The Rasmalai sweet dumplings made from cottage cheese soaked in sweetened and thickened milk Ranjan says is some of the best he's ever eaten. He has a stock of Indian beers, including Kingfisher and the lesser known Flying Horse Lager, Taj Mahal and Haywards 5000. There's a small display of watches and bangles, and he's added a number of products to please his growing Latino customers.

Dana Bazaar, 1701 Rockville Pike, 301 231 7546, and 12829 Wisteria Drive, Germantown, is another good source for ingredients. It sells fresh fruit and vegetables, and staple groceries from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, as well as Tamil, Bengali, Malayalam, Telugu, Kannada and Hindi CDs and movies. They also do Pal-NTSC-Pal video conversions.

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