Across the Mediterranean and Middle East at the end of summer, lemons scent the warm fall air. So if you've got lemons, what do you do: make lemonade. (You knew that...)

Whether they come from Israel or California, buy them at their best in the early fall and freeze them for winter use in vinaigrettes, tagines, roasted chickens, lemonade and more.

When buying lemons for their juice, choose those whose skin feels thin - the ones that respond to a slight squeeze in the palm of your hand. They tend to be rounder with less of a pointed end like those in the photo. Lemons that look most traditionally lemon-like have much thicker skins and produce less liquid. These are good when you want to make preserved lemons or crystalized lemon peel.

If you're using a lemon for zest, make sure you scrub the lemon well first. The rind will have been waxed. Lemon zesters tend to be a waste of money. Just use the small-holes side of a cheese grater.

The difference between lemonade made from commercial, highly-sugared lemon crystals in a cardboard canister and lemonade made from fresh squeezed lemons is the difference between a bicycle and a Formula 1 racing car. The French make a mess of their citron pressé just like they miss a trick not heating their croissants. They serve the drink in a tall glass with a carafe of water and sugar on the side. No matter how much sugar you add it never dissolves and sits like cement at the bottom of a very sour drink.

Here's the trick: Squeeze your lemons into a jug, about 8 of them. Melt a quantity of sugar (up to you how much sugar syrup you want to make) - say 1/2 cup in just enough water to make it translucent. Melt, stirring occasionally, over low heat until it's completely dissolved. About 3-5 minutes' wait. Cool then add to the lemon juice and stir. Serve with fizzy or flat water and ice cubes. (Or a jigger of gin, a few fresh mint leaves and less sparkling water...)

Related Information...

3 Comments

1. Little Red

   The French citron presse sounds like the Indian nimbu pani. The sugar is optional and you can get it with still or carbonated water.

2. Julia

   I love nimbu pani (didn't know its name) when it's made with salt not sugar and soda water! It's one of the most refreshing drinks in the world.

3. Little Red

   I've heard of the salty version but never had it. I guess I better try before summer really disappears.