There's mozzarella and mozzarella. (And then there's bufala mozzarella, made in the authentic fashion of Southern Italy from buffalo milk.)

Italians know in their home country to shop where the mozzarella is made the most often, which means it is truly fresh. Italian delicatessen Vace, 3315 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 363 1999 and 7010 Wisconsin Ave, Bethesda, 301 654 6367, makes its own daily, as do these: Italia, 8662 Colesville Rd, Silver Spring, 301 588 6999; Mamma Lucia's, with its thoroughly Italian atmosphere at 2409 University Blvd West, Wheaton, 301 949 2112; Marchone's, 11224 Triangle Lane, Wheaton, 301 949 4150; Santucci's, 10107 Colesville Rd, Silver Spring, 301 593 8338. Also try one of my favorite Italian markets, Cornucopia in Bethesda.

But according to Ellen Gray, co-owner with executive chef husband Todd Gray of Equinox Restaurant, the mozzarella made from Jersey cow milk by the Blue Ridge Dairy and sold at the Sunday morning Farmers Market on Dupont Circle is without peer! It's smooth, rich and creamy and sold in its own brine, so you don't have to throw out the liquid. Their ricotta is equally special.

Small marinated or plain 'bocconcini' are usually sold by Dean & DeLuca, Balducci's, and Whole Foods.

And for real luxury, look out for burrata, a ball of mozzarella encasing a fondant interior of unctuous mozzarella curds as rich and soft as whipped heavy cream. You'll find it in spring at good cheese counters like Cheesetique in the Del Ray district of Alexandria, and The Cowgirl Creamery. But call first to check.

If you don't eat your mozzarella on the day you buy it, make sure you change its surrounding water (unless the liquid is brine) daily.

Related Information...