Mozzarella with the mostest

There's mozzarella and mozzarella. (And then there's bufala mozzarella, made in the authentic fashion of Southern Italy from buffalo milk.)

Italians know to shop where the mozzarella is made the most often, which means it is truly fresh. That of Marcella's Pizzeria, 8505 Connecticut Ave, Chevy Chase, 301 951 1818, is among the most prized by local Italians. Owner Cesare has been known to make it four times a day, supplies go so fast. Italian delicatessen Vace, 3315 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 363 1999 and 7010 Wisconsin Ave, Bethesda, 301 654 6367, makes its own daily, as do Italia, 8662 Colesville Rd, Silver Spring, 301 588 6999; Mamma Lucia's, with its thoroughly Italian atmosphere at 2409 University Blvd West, Wheaton, 301 949 2112; Marchone's, 11224 Triangle Lane, Wheaton, 301 949 4150; Santucci's, 10107 Colesville Rd, Silver Spring, 301 593 8338.

But according to Ellen Gray, co-owner with executive chef husband Todd Gray of Equinox Restaurant, the mozzarella made from Jersey cow milk by the Blue Ridge Dairy and sold at the Sunday morning Farmers Market on Dupont Circle is without peer! It's smooth, rich and creamy and sold in its own brine, so you don't have to throw out the liquid. Their ricotta is equally special.

Small marinated or plain 'bocconcini' are usually sold by Dean & DeLuca, Balducci's, and Whole Foods.

If you don't eat your mozzarella on the day you buy it, make sure you change its surrounding water (unless the liquid is brine) daily.

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