One of the most delicious dishes at Bob's Noodle House looks like an early generation breast implant. It's an upturned teacup of gray-toned rice surrounding a stuffing of chopped and spiced meats in a silky gravy. You'll find it in the appetizer section of this Taiwanese restaurant's menu whose clientele is almost entirely Asian.

Don't go to Bob's for the decor - it's a straightforward Formica tabletop place with bright lights and little more. A new date not fully committed to food would not be impressed. But fine dining establishments could take a lesson from Bob's wait staff. No-one introduces themselves. You're not constantly interrupted by people pouring water. The service is brisk and efficient, the food arriving almost instantly even when you've picked at length from the family menu, an extensive list that allows you to build a homely feast from Columns A, B, and C.

Unless you're familiar with the food - it's a stretch to call it 'cuisine' since we've elevated that humble word to relate to discussions of fine dining which this most definitely is not - follow our example. We looked about at what Taiwanese and Chinese families were eating and asked for those dishes. The photo shows a massive plate of fried fish in a lemony sauce that had already been decimated before I remembered to take out my camera. So much for a professional approach.

Bob's Noodle House, 305 N. Washington St, Rockville, 301 315 6668.