Until we're allowed to fly into Havana, we're being deprived of a true Cuban sandwich. There are sandwich bars that trumpet their Cuban sandwiches. But it's hard to find one made with the right bread. But even the not-quite-real-McKoy is a great summer chew for picnics in the park. Here's where to find the close-to-genuine article.

A proper Cuban sandwich should be sliced across the vertical. Its filling should contain roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, dill pickles, mustard and mayo. Then, like a pan bagna, it should be damp with a vinaigrette, in this case, a garlicky vinegar sauce. Find a Cuban sandwich like this at the Caribbean Grill, 5183 Lee Hwy, Arlington, 703 241 8947.

You can also drink a tacita there. It's a tiny cup of very strong coffee with thick foam on top. A cortadito has two-thirds milk added.

Good Cuban sandwiches can also be had at the full service restaurant Cubanos, 1201 Fidler Lane, Silver Spring, 301 563 4020. But better to sample its authentic Cuban food, in the restaurant's cheerfully colored rooms.

Other sources include

The Breadline, 1751 Pennsylvania Ave NW, 202 822 8900, on Thursdays at lunch;
Banana Cafe, 500 8th St SE, 202  543 5906;
Mixtec Restaurant, 1792 Columbia Rd NW, 202 332 1011;
Caribbean Grill, 5183 Lee Hwy, Arlington, 703 241 8947;
Cuban Corner, 825 Hungerford Dr, Rockville, 301 279 0310;
Cuba de Ayer, 15448 Old Columbia Pike, Burtonsville, 301 476 9622. 

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