I don't feel particularly well served by restaurant reviewers who believe they shouldn't put pen to paper until they've given a place a go three times. If I eat a poor meal the first time round, why, as a general punter with plenty of dining choices, would I give them a second chance? But I can't write a Nosh Note this week because I spent my noshing money on a new swimsuit. So you might consider giving The Fearless Critic, a new DC restaurant reviews book, a look over. Its reviewers have to have some educated connection with food, either in training or career. (Here I go, doing myself out of a job...)

It's got a website that posts new reviews. But I have to say, the ones I've read so far have found everywhere absolutely fabulous. So that's either a massive pat on the back for Washington chefs or a little starry-eyed. I have a list as long as your arm of places - some of them hot and hip and/or reviewed by this book - that I won't mourn if they close. They have reputations way above their abilities.

But I'm uncomfortable with the notion that bloggers - who are not paid-up members of the restaurant reviewing profession - are free to massacre a place that doesn't have a similar outlet where their chefs can slag off the amateur reviewer, some of whom don't know their brassicas from their branzino. Somehow, if chefs ever respond by leaving a Comment, they sound defensive. And offensive, or at least very uppity. They're cooks, not scribes. It's not a level playing field.

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