Not only is this a really simple, elegant cake to make, but it is gluten free. It's a Sephardic recipe, from Claudia Roden's classic, 'A Book of Middle Eastern Food'. In the summer, serve it with a few berries. In the fall and winter with dried fruits plumped up and stewed in a little whisky-flavored tea.

Serves 10-12

2 large oranges or 3 medium
6 eggs
1 cup superfine sugar
2 cups ground almonds
1 tsp baking soda
knob of butter
flour and confectioner's sugar for dusting

Wash and boil the whole unpeeled oranges in just enough water to cover in a covered pan for 2 hours. When cool enough to handle, cut them open and remove the seeds. Tear the oranges into the bowl of a food processor and blitz to a puree. You can do all this 24 hours ahead.

Pre-heat oven to 350F.

Whisk the eggs with the sugar until pale and fluffy. Stir in the orange puree then the almonds and baking soda to make a stiff batter. Generously smear a 9-inch spring-form cake pan and dust with flour, shaking the excess out. Stand on a baking sheet and pour in the mixture.

Bake 45-60 minutes, till the cake has risen and is firm, not wet. Cool in the pan before reversing out so the flat golden base becomes the top, and dusting with confectioner's sugar.