Yes, you can buy pistachios at the Giant and Safeway loose or in cellophane sacks. But if you head for a Middle Eastern market's supply, you'll be introduced to a whole new dimension in these exceptional nuts.

Yekta, at 1488-A Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301 984 1190, sells one variety with rock salt sticking to the shells, and a wonderfully sour version. They also sell them in packets already shelled if you are planning to use them for cooking.

So does Yasaman Bakery, in the Ritchie Center, 785J Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301 762 5416. They both also sell them ready-shelled which is perfect for home baking, but they're not so pronounced in freshness if you want them as cocktail nuts.

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