Genuine Prosciutto di Parma, Prosciutto San Daniele (the best Italian makes), Jamón Ibérico, the premium ham made from Spain’s fabled black pigs, and Jamon de Serrano from Spain, must be made according to particular processes to bear their names.

The process begins in the cold winter months so that the meat isn't compromised by warm temperatures that might introduce harmful bacteria. The hams are cleaned, rubbed with sea salt and left for a few months for the blood to drain. They're regularly pressed over these weeks to help the action along. Then they're washed and left to hang in a cool, well-aired place until they have dried out, a procedure which, for the best examples, will take three years or longer. 

What we know as prosciutto is only the word in Italian for 'ham'. Prosciutto di Parma and Prosciutto San Daniele are both, correctly, 'prosciutto crudo' which means 'raw ham'. To Italians all other ham is 'prosciutto cotto' - 'cooked ham'. A prosciutto cotto di Parma is some of the best cooked ham you'll taste. Dean & De Luca sometimes sells it.

The great news is that Jamón Ibérico, which has not been officially allowed into the United States, at last now is. It's all due to the hard work of José Andrés, Spanish owner-chef of Jaleo, Oyamel, Cafe Atlantico and Zaytinya who, along with Taberna del Alabardero, will be the first restaurateur to feature it. Fermín USA are the importers. The ham is cured from the haunches of black-hoofed pigs that freely roam the Iberian peninsula where they feed off acorns - also part of the final feed of Parma ham pigs. There's a wait list of restaurants and retailers who want to stock Jamón Ibérico, at a price around $70 a pound. Log onto http://www.Tienda.com for stockists other than Dean & DeLuca, its initial suppliers.

Paper-thin slices of cured ham are sublime with fresh figs or a creamy blue cheese like France's Saint Agur.

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