Not so long ago in Italy, ricotta was delivered twice a day along with the milk.

Traditionally made from sheep's milk slowly heated until it separates, ricotta (meaning 'recooked') is what's left once the whey, having been reheated, thickens and coagulates and is left to drain in wicker baskets.

Supermarket ricotta is a pale imitation, having been pasteurized for 15 seconds at 160 degrees. Look for ricotta from small independent producers who use a higher quality milk and pasteurize the cheese for around 30 minutes at 120 degrees to protect its delicate flavor. In Italy, though, traditional ricotta would not be pasteurized at all.

Blue Ridge Dairy at the farmers' market at Dupont Circle on Sunday mornings makes excellent ricotta. Whole Foods' ricotta is good, too.

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