Chef has a history at historic restaurant

The Occidental is one of those Washington institutions that are so old — it’s over 100 — that some people may have thought it had died. But this grande dame of capital restaurants is not only alive; she's very much kicking. Rodney Scruggs, its executive chef, is doing his best in the kitchen to remind people that while younger contenders have sprung up all over town, the venerable Occidental is still worthy of notice.

The restaurant was closed from 1978 to 1986 and then again briefly before it turned 100 in 2007. But these days, renovated and spruced up, the stately dining room has the kind of gentlemen’s club atmosphere you’d expect to find more of in DC. Where else can you eat a meal under the framed black-and-white gaze of John F. Kennedy, Buffalo Bill Cody, Jackie Robinson - three among the 2,600 assorted presidents, statesmen, writers, actors, artists and general beau monde whose signed photos crowd every possible wall? At these starched-cloth tables, history has been made.

From its opening in 1926 until 1952, the Occidental was owned by only two families — first the Willards of the hotel next door, then the Bucholzes. Then the Price brothers, two restaurateurs from New York, bought it. They were the ones who dreamed up the slogan “Where Statesmen Dine.” And, in fact, every White House occupant has eaten there while still in office, except George W. Bush (though he ate there before his confirmation).

Scruggs is almost Occidental “family” himself. Born in Pittsburgh, he moved to Washington with his mother in 1980 and began his career at the Occidental 20 years ago at 17, as a line cook. And three years ago, he came back, this time as executive chef.

When he first joined the Occidental, Jeffrey Buben, now owner/chef of Vidalia and Bistro Bis, was executive chef. Under his guidance, Scruggs worked his way up to executive sous chef, staying for seven years. Next he worked with Francesco Ricchi at Cesco Trattoria in Bethesda and then with Roberto Donna of Galileo and Bebo Trattoria. Then he found himself again with Buben, opening Bistro Bis.

Scruggs says Buben has had the most influence on him and praises him as his mentor. “He’s an outstanding businessman. He also runs his kitchen in a certain way,” he says. But he credits Donna with instilling in him a true love for food. “Italians in general feel [it]. At the time I was being trained, Americans saw it more as a business. For Italians it was a pleasure. Roberto brought out the passion. To hear him talk about food was very romantic, but you buy into his philosophy.”

Power brokers make up one of the Occidental’s two prime categories of diners. Tourists comprise the other, and Scruggs' menu is designed to appeal to both groups. If some dishes may sound conservative, what Scruggs does to them is not. Prime ingredients are given both classic and contemporary treatment. To ensure that every ingredient is at the peak of freshness, he orders, for instance, only five pounds of fish a time, which means his deliveries have to be almost daily.

Scruggs beams with pride as he conducts a tour of the dining rooms and kitchen. But he spends so much time there, he admits to missing on his other love - golf. He'd like to have more time to "Just go play, play, play!”

The Occidental, 202-783-1475, is located at 1475 Pennsylvania Ave. NW.

A version of this article by Julia Watson first appeared in the Northwest, Dupont, Foggy Bottom and Georgetown Current Newspapers. Photo Bill Petros/The Current.

Related Information...