Rodney Scruggs - Chef of The Occidental

Chef has a history at historic restaurant

The Occidental is one of those Washington institutions that are so old — it’s over 100 — that some people may have thought it had died. But this grande dame of capital restaurants is not only alive; she's very much kicking. Rodney Scruggs, its executive chef for the past two years, is doing his best in the kitchen to remind people that while younger contenders have sprung up all over town, the venerable Occidental is still worthy of notice.

The restaurant was closed from 1978 to 1986 and then again briefly before it turned 100 in 2007. But now, renovated and spruced up, the stately dining room is the sort of gentlemen’s club you’d expect to find more of in D.C. Where else can you eat a meal under the framed black-and-white gaze of John F. Kennedy, Buffalo Bill Cody and Jackie Robinson? At these starched-cloth tables, history has been made.

From its opening in 1926 until 1952, when two restaurateurs from New York bought it, the Occidental was owned by only two families — first the Willards of the hotel next door, then the Bucholzes.

Scruggs is almost Occidental “family” himself. Born in Pittsburgh, he moved to Washington with his mother in 1980 and began his career at the Occidental almost 20 years ago — at 17, as a line cook. And two years ago, he came back again, this time as executive chef.

When Scruggs first joined the Occidental, Jeffrey Buben, now owner/chef of Vidalia and Bistro Bis, was executive chef. Under his guidance, Scruggs worked his way up to executive sous chef, staying for seven years. Next he worked with Francesco Ricchi at Cesco Trattoria in Bethesda and then with Roberto Donna of Galileo and Bebo Trattoria. Then he found himself again with Buben, opening Bistro Bis.

Scruggs says Buben has had the most influence on him and praises him as his mentor. “He’s an outstanding businessman. He also runs his kitchen in a certain way,” he says. But he credits Donna with instilling in him a true love for food. “Italians in general feel [it]. At the time I was being trained, Americans saw it more as a business. For Italians it was a pleasure. Roberto brought out the passion. To hear him talk about food was very romantic, but you buy into his philosophy.”

Back now at the Occidental, Scruggs has great plans. The New York Price brothers who bought the venerable restaurant from the Bucholzes in the 1950s were the ones who dreamed up the slogan “Where Statesmen Dine.” And, in fact, every White House occupant has eaten there while still in office, except George W. Bush (though he ate there before his confirmation). And Scruggs is hoping he’ll come by before the year is out. Then, perhaps, his signed photograph might hang next to the 2,600 assorted presidents, statesmen, writers, actors, artists and general beau monde that crowd every possible wall of the restaurant.

Scruggs has already cooked for Bush — just not at the restaurant. It was at a small private dinner in Georgetown. “He came into the kitchen a couple of times. [He was wearing] just a casual shirt, blue jeans, black cowboy boots, leather bomber jacket. The Secret Service stood next to me the whole time I cooked, talking to me about things. In some ways it wasn’t even like cooking for the president of the United States. It was kind of like cooking at home with friends. Afterwards, I thought, he’s a regular person!”

Power brokers like the president make up one of the Occidental’s two prime categories of diners. Tourists comprise the other, and Scruggs is driving his menu to appeal to both groups. At this time of year, wild game from a supplier in Virginia, marinated pork loin with braised pork belly, a roulade of whole stuffed rabbit and Scruggs’ take on shrimp and grits share the dinner menu with crab cakes and grilled New York strip steak.

He was disappointed that a recent tasting-menu offering of Scottish partridge didn’t take as well as he had hoped. Shot in the wild, it has far more flavor than farm-raised game, he says. Though Scruggs went through every bird painstakingly and presented the breasts pounded thin as a paillard, he nonetheless sent his waiters out to caution diners
against any lurking tiny buckshot. There was no report of broken teeth, but if the feedback had been more enthusiastic, he would have placed it on the regular menu.

“The only thing we’re looking at right now,” he says, “is where the economy is. At lunch we only have one item over $20.” Given that the options include roasted duck leg that Scruggs “confits” himself, beef short rib braised in Guinness, grilled salmon and a roasted breast of free-range chicken, that’s no small boast.

Some dishes may sound conservative. But what Scruggs does to them is not. The grilled salmon comes with grilled pineapple, wild watercress and pomegranate seeds. The duck confit is served with French Puy lentils, frisée lettuce and a sherry vinegar sauce, and the lime-and-cumin-crusted mahi-mahi comes with dried plantain chip and chipotle sauce. His Caesar salad is re-configured, with a Parmesan crisp and poached egg. To ensure that every ingredient is at the peak of freshness, he has reduced his orders — to only five pounds of fish a time, for instance — which means his deliveries have to be almost daily.

Scruggs beams with pride as he conducts a tour of the dining rooms and kitchen. “I really like where it’s headed,” he says. At some point soon, he hopes the restaurant’s routine will become settled enough so that he can take a little time for himself. “I used to play golf a lot. I’d like to get back, to get that release. One day after lunch service, maybe, I can just go play, play, play!”

The Occidental (202-783-1475; occidentaldc.com) is located at 1475 Pennsylvania Ave. NW. Main courses cost $29 to $48.

This article by Julia Watson first appeared in the Northwest, Dupont, Foggy Bottom and Georgetown Current Newspapers. Photo Bill Petros/The Current.