In 1927, Italy suffered a dreadful outbreak of swine fever. Since then, by law, imported salamis, cotecchinos, even some cured hams must be pasteurized. Europeans would argue that this diminishes their flavor quite considerably.

Parma ham that has been cured for more than 400 days does not need to be pasteurized.

The great news is that Jamón Ibérico, which has not been officially allowed into the United States, at last now is. It's all due to the hard work of José Andrés, Spanish owner-chef of Jaleo, Oyamel, Cafe Atlantico and Zaytinya who, along with Taberna del Alabardero, will be the first restaurateur to feature it. Fermín USA are the importers. The ham is cured from the haunches of black-hoofed pigs that freely roam the Iberian peninsula where they feed off acorns - also part of the final feed of Parma ham pigs. There's a wait list of restaurants and retailers who want to stock Jamón Ibérico, at a price around $70 a pound. Log onto http://www.Tienda.com for stockists other than Dean & DeLuca, its initial suppliers.

Look closely at labels for Milano, Soppressata and other salamis and you will probably find they have been manufactured in the United States, to Italian recipes. Those described as imported generally come from Canada where similar restrictions apply, not Europe.

Pasteurization dims down the flavor. But some makes survive the treatment better than others. And some makers have applied methods of production that satisfy FDA regulations. From France, look for the Jean de France brand from Lyon, for sale at Dean & DeLuca. The whole 10-ounce sausages cost around $8. They are garlicky and vinous and flavored with peppercorns or nuts. The larger traditional Rosette de Lyon and a salami flavored with Beaujolais can be sliced to order, $12 a pound.

A few chefs in town make their own: Frank Ruta at Palena, Peter Smith at PS7s, and Robert Weland at Poste among them. But if you'd like your own supply, delivered to your door, log on to Boccalone. Twice a month, the Boccalone Salumi Society, based in the Bay Area, will send you a box of charcuterie made by Chris Cosentino, chef of Incanto. It costs from $174 for 3 months' supply of piggy surprises from sausages to lardo and salamis, all of them hand made.

Related Information...

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Massimo Fabbri - Chef of Ristorante Tosca
Prosciutto & other cured hams
Starters: Flambéed Figs with Goat Cheese and Prosciutto

Posted on Thursday 15th November 2007 in Mediterranean, Information