The owner of this modest market in Rockville City Center presents himself as Marlboro Man of the Middle East. He's behind the till in a stetson, with flourishing face hair. He's got the sullen attitude of Clint Eastwood in 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly' days down pat. Barely engaging in dialogue, he wants to know if you appreciate that the can of Sahadi Coffee you want to buy is of the powdered kind to brew in a tiny brass pot, not to be dumped in a cafetiere. If you're feeling at one with the cosmos, you might opt to construe this as considerate, not obstructive.

Shiraz Grocery is not a Middle East market to head for if you want to complete a comprehensive shopping list. Its shelves are sparsely stocked but, for aficianados of the region, thoughtfully. It has a wide selection of fresh phyllo dough, fresh sheets of lavash (pictured)  and other breads. Findik Ezmesi is a chocolate spread with 30 percent hazelnuts, a vastly sophisticated improvement on Nutella.

Here is where to come if you believe there is only one version of tahini. Think again. I counted several different takes on the sesame seed paste. And they have an equally impressive stock of different sujuk - spicy Turkish sausages. Each is worth a try.

There are frozen falafel, sold with tahini sauce, in the freezer cabinet, taze yufka bread sheets, kataifi dough, sesame cookies and a wide variety of teas.

Shiraz Grocery, 611 Hungerford Drive, Rockville, 301 340 6214.