Okay. This is not the most photogenic way to present a chicken liver pate that is wonderful in summer with a crusty baguette. But make it. It's easy and delicious. Daniel Bortnick, chef of Firefly, gives this Jewish classic a contemporary twist with apple. Make it a day or two ahead to mellow the flavors.

Makes 1 quart

1 organic apple, chopped
1/2 yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 pint organic chicken livers, drained
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
2 fluid ounces brandy
1/4 pound butter plus one tablespoon, room temperature
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Sauté apples and onions together in one tablespoon each of oil and butter until caramelized.

Add the livers and sauté until caramelized. Deglaze with brandy and simmer until livers are cooked through - stiff but still rosy inside.

Sprinkle over the thyme leaves then place in a food processor with the butter.

Purée until smooth, season to taste with salt and pepper.

Push through a tamis sieve with a wooden spoon. Pack into one large or several individual portion ramekins and chill.

Serve with warm buttered and toasted rye bread. Daniel Bortnick also adds pickled radish, and herb salad.

Firefly is located at 1310 New Hampshire Ave NW, 202 861 1310. Main courses cost from $19 to $28.

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