The Kielbasa Factory is a fine replacement for the much missed Polonetz Gourmet. And despite its name it sells good Polish doughnuts, a jam-filled denser version of the ones we're familiar with. Krystyna Ahrens opened the deli just after Thanksgiving in 2007. Now the place, in the Talbott Center and approached from round the back, is packed.

She arrived in Washington in 2001. "I became very active in the Polish community. I noticed we always had big food sales at the Polish church [Church of Our Lady Queen of Poland in Silver Spring] at Easter and Christmas. But there were no Polish markets. The closest one was in Baltimore." So she opened one herself.

Sausages like makowiec and kabanosy come from a Polish butcher in Chicago, though she hopes to make her own at some point. There are pierogi and blintzes in the freezer, chocolates, cookies, Rum Babka and poppy seed tortes, as well as jars of pickles and jams. Classic vegetable salads suspended in mayonnaise, chicken salads and others are sold by the pound. Sandwiches are made to order. What you need is patience - the line is long and enthusiastic.

A real bonus is that you can buy the brilliant Jamie Stachowski's charcuterie here. He used to have the Restaurant Kolumbia and is much missed on the restaurant scene.

The Kielbasa Factory, 1073 Rockville Pike, Rockville, 240 453 9090.