Quince is in season. But sniff before you buy. If you can't smell a gentle scent, it hasn't been touched with the frost that develops its flavor. You'll find them in good shape at Le Market (this week's Favorite Market).

Halalco, 155 Hillwood Ave, Falls Church, has lamb kidneys for those who like a devilled dish to keep themselves warm. It also sells ready-made chicken tikka, samosas and pokara, though I've tried none of these. (They sell cleaning scourers more cheaply than anywhere - 10 for $1.09!)

At GoCong, a tiny market down from the Lebanese Butcher at 113 E. Annandale Rd, Falls Church, there are spring rolls wrapped in banana leaves that you unwrap and fry, along with a small but good selection of fresh South East Asian produce.

At the Lebanese Butcher itself, you'll find Shangesh, a Kosher rennet and a range of carrot, beet and radish pickles and olives in open vats