Wine doesn't come as cheap in Washington as it can in other US cities. The larger stores generally offer the best bargains. Among them are Calvert & Woodley, Schneiders, Pearson's, Central Liquor, Paul's Liquor and Chevy Chase Wines & Liquors. But Rodman's is full of surprising treasures, reasonably priced.

On a smaller scale is Cleveland Park Wines & Liquor at 3423 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 363 4265. It's a well-stocked family-run business with regular wine tastings and an enthusiastic and helpful in-house wine consultant in Anthony Quinn. Best Cellars, 1643 Connecticut Ave NW, 202 387 3146, helpfully sets out their wines under headings that colorfully describe as closely as possible what you can expect from each bottle by way of flavor and nose. Staff will help partner the most effective wine to the meal you plan to cook. Addy Bassin, 4877 MacArthur Blvd NW, 202 338 1433, has staff full of information and enthusiasm, ready to guide the novice and the expert. They also hold frequent tastings. The stock at The Curious Grape, 4056 South 28th Street, Arlington, 703 671 8700 is wide ranging and the staff helpful. It also has an extraordinary selection of cheeses and single origin chocolates.

If you are a novice and would like to learn more, call 703 685 7970 to take Introduction to Wine and Food classes, designed for beginning-to-intermediate students. First Class, 202 797 5102 also runs short introductory classes to Wine Appreciation, as well as Advanced Wine Appreciation classes.

But the following tips can guide you to the best bargains:

• It pays to form a relationship with one store and one clerk. Ask the advice of wine store clerks.
• Be wary of 'sales' in newspaper ads. They can alert you to the buy-out of special stock at good prices, but not every time.
• Compare prices; some stores repeatedly undercut the opposition.
• Look in the discount bin - you can sometimes find a great buy.

If starting a vineyard will only ever be a fantasy, at least enjoy the vineyards of those who have made them a reality. There are more than 47 wineries in Virginia, a good many of them within easy driving distance of Washington. One of the most enterprising is Linden Vineyards & Orchards, 3708 Harrels Corner, Linden, near Front Royal. They organize wine seminars, jazz and wine festivals and food and wine tie-ins with chefs and restaurants. To get on their mailing list, call 540 363 1997. For details of wine tastings and festivals throughout the year, call the Virginia Wine Marketing office, 800 828 4637 for their Festival and Tour Guide.

You can create a certain kind of wine without a vineyard and with grape concentrate. This and all the equipment you will need to make wine - or beer - is available at:

Aspen Hill Lottery Wine & Beer, 13745 Connecticut Ave, Wheaton, 301 460 3300

Brew & Wine Masters, 12266 Wilkins Ave, Rockville, 301 984 9557

The Flying Barrel, 111 S. Carrol St, Frederick, 301 663 4491

James T. Warring Sons, 4545 S St, Capitol Heights, 301 322 5400, sells wooden barrels.