One of the most unpopular fishes, anchovies nevertheless are the culinary equivalent of the Wonderbra. They add not just saltiness but body to every dish they're used in. And if you don't confess, most critics won't know they're there.

Graham Bartlett is executive chef of Zengo, where you can find almost everything from ceviche to sushi. He caught the “food bug” while traveling with his parents in Mexico. But Paris, not the States nor Latin America was where he went to learn the culinary arts.