Eggs
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The perfect Yorkshire pudding - 12 Dec 2011
A proper Yorkshire pudding is a Christmas treat - and a vital component of a roast beef feast. It must be 4 inches tall. That's official. The Royal Society of Chemists says so. The second key qualification is the cook must have Yorkshire blood. "It's the instinct of people born and raised in Yorkshire. You can tell if the cook has the right touch," scientist John Emsley told the BBC. Perhaps that's why my Yorkshire mother makes puddings like shoe leather - she was born and raised in Kuala Lumpur. read more...
Smoked Haddock - 6 Nov 2011
British breakfasters miss their kedgeree, a staple of the groaning British Raj breakfast sideboard that these days makes a great lunch or supper dish, especially when the cold days draw in. But where to get the key ingredient for this and the delicious Omelette Arnold Bennett, smoked haddock? Don't despair, there's a good internet source. read more...
Tortilla Española - 7 Oct 2011
From the Taberna del Alabardero, this recipe for Tortilla Española makes a classic Spanish tapas dish, perfect for a festive fall lunch, that feeds 15 with very little trouble. read more...
Kitchen tricks: how to peel an egg - 11 Aug 2011
This handy tip comes from eatWashingtonian Christina, learned, she says on a trip to Maine. read more...
Chocolate tart - 21 Apr 2011
Forget Easter eggs. Make this celebratory tart from Tom Power, owner-chef of Corduroy. It's an elegant and deeply chocolate dessert that will pass you off as a master patissier yet it's not hard to make. read more...
The Butcher's Block by Robert Weidmaier - one of my favorite markets - 10 Feb 2011
Robert Weidmaier's favorite pantry supplies are all on sale at his Butcher's Block in Alexandria. Even better, Weidmaier, owner and chef of Marcel's, Brasserie Beck and now Brabo and The Tasting Room next door to Butcher's Block, A Market, has filled his meat counter with a splendid selection, from an exceptional pork belly to veal cheeks and the more familiar cuts of beef. read more...
Baked Chocolate Sabayon - 15 Oct 2010
Corduroy on 9th Street NW is one of those restaurants chefs say they love to eat at. So if you can't get there, here is owner chef Tom Power's recipe for Baked Chocolate Sabayon which is just the ticket for fall feasting. read more...
Pan Dulce - 8 Sep 2010
Katsuya Fukushima, of Jose Andres' minibar and Café Atlántico, takes classic French toast and by changing the bread to brioche, putting Chihuahua cheese from Latino markets between the slices and adding cinnamon to the egg custard, gives it a Latin American twist. read more...
Thai Chicken Basil with Fried Egg - 11 Aug 2010
Aulie Bunyarataphan, owner-chef of Bangkok Joe's, makes this recipe that's the perfect example of how speedily a Thai dish can be brought to the table. The bulk of the time involved likes in assembling the ingredients for a quick stir fry that preserves flavor and contrast of textures. read more...
Bittersweet Mocha Grappa Torte with Walnuts - 23 Apr 2010
Domenica Marchetti, author of Big Night In, from which this recipe is taken, says: "I can't even count the number of times that chocolate tortes have been a source of disappointment to this chocolate lover...either too liquored up, too jammy, too nutty, too dry, or too dense (giant chocolate truffle, anyone?). That's why I am so in love with this recipe; it delivers everything it promises."
So I tried it. And she's right. But the photo is of my version not her elegant one. Tidying up its overspill was a treat - I just ate the bits I sliced off for beautification... read more...
Barbara Kafka's Crème Anglaise in 6 minutes - 9 Sep 2009
Crème Anglaise is such a seductive, soothing vanilla sauce wonderful with fall fruit tarts and cobblers, it's tempting to ignore the dessert it coats and just eat this perfect custard. Cookbook writer and regular New York Times food pages contributor Barbara Kafka has a brilliant short cut to perfect Crème Anglaise that you don't need to stand over fearfully to prevent it from curdling. It's one of two good reasons to invest in a microwave. (The other is heating milk to froth for coffee...) read more...
Saint Michel Bakery - one of my favorites - 8 Jul 2009
I've been mourning the deterioration in quality of Bonaparte Bakery's baguettes. They've lost that balance between crustiness and crumbiness and Wagshal's, where I go to buy them, no longer stocks their ficelles which I preferred to the baguettes. I don't know if that means that Bonaparte's doesn't bake them any more. But at any rate, I don't mind too much. I've discovered a proper French bakery - Saint Michel Bakery, owned by a proper French baker, Bertrand Houlier. read more...
Desssert: Pain du Mom with Crème Anglaise - 1 Jul 2009
"My mom came up with this recipe," says John MacPherson, owner-chef of the Foster Harris House (so, Francophones, don't get picky about the grammar), "and has served it for some 20 years. Of course the serving size at my mom's is five times as big as we serve at the Foster Harris House, but a little goes a long way with this decadent breakfast dessert." read more...
Ice creams & gelati - 17 Jun 2009
In Russia, even in the depths of winter, queues of people form around the ice-cream carts stationed on street corners and down the iced-over paths of Moscow's Gorki Park. The world over, it's a seductive cold comfort. read more...
Desserts: Pumpernickel ice cream - 3 Feb 2009
This rich ice cream from RJ Cooper III, chef de cuisine of Vidalia, couldn't be easier or faster to make. Or more sophisticated to eat. read more...
Eastern Market - 4 Nov 2008
Eastern Market has recovered after the fire that devastated it in spring 2007. But while finishing touches are put to the original brick building, you'll find it in an extensive marquee opposite.
It's like a street farmers' market, but established long before anyone had head the word farmers' market in the U.S. and open every day of the week and under cover - though it also has a variety of farmers' market stalls outside. Come here for a proper butcher, fish and cheesemonger. read more...
Starters: Green Asparagus and Morels Fricassee with Organic Poached Egg - 14 Oct 2008
This recipe of Nicolas Legret, chef at The Willard Room, can be adapted to use cheaper mushrooms than morels. read more...
Eggs better for you and the hen - 24 Sep 2008
Think hard about buying Cage-Free Hen eggs instead of regular eggs. There's not a massive amount of price difference. But there is a massive difference for the hens. read more...
Sticky Pecan Buns - 12 May 2008
He Who Must Not Necessarily Be Obeyed bought me a KitchenAid. So he is being obeyed for a wee while, which means I downloaded the Food Network's recipe for Joanne Chang's Sticky Buns. After all, they won against Bobby Flay's in a throwdown. And as a first-time bun baker, I thought I'd have a go at perhaps the trickiest dough there is. Paradise reached in one! The photo is of that key moment before they went into the oven, demonstrating that despite all the goo they were sitting in and my lack of faith, they did rise again. (Besides, when I took the photo of when they came out, it was as dark as the buns. Want do you want? I have to learn to conquer a KitchenAid, a brioche recipe and camera all at once?) read more...
Farmers' markets - food for health and flavor - 11 May 2008
Spring is here and farmers' markets are about to blossom on the streets of the capital. We need to support local farmers. They're doing a tough job to bring us food that's healthy and full of flavor. If we want to see that kind of respect from regular supermarkets when they decide what to stock, they need to notice the sales they're missing when we shop for local produce. Then they might be more encouraged to shop locally, too... read more...
The lunch shift is over and chef Peter Smith, owner of PS 7’s restaurant is surrounded by gin. No, he’s not relaxing over a drink. The gin is in bowls in an pre-formed state. It’s the mash, a mix of herbs and berries and peels and roots that Smith has worked out how to use in his food as flavorings.
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The perfect Yorkshire pudding
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