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Far North

A hunk of Polish kielbasi with a sour pickle. Warm pierogis made to a babushka's recipe. Then an ice cream, a Gorky Park-favorite of Muscovites in winter walking alongside the seven foot-high snow drifts. Or perhaps you'd prefer a dollop of caviar on Bardavinski bread. Not from the Caspian - that caviar is running out, but American spoonbill caviar. American sturgeon were so prolific in 19th-century New York, their black eggs stood in for peanuts in every bar. It all makes a picnic fit for Czars and Bolsheviks, comrades and citizens.

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Berries - ripe for picking - 24 Jun 2010

Berry picking is one of the highlights of summer, with different fruits following each other through the season, even the rare blackcurrants and gooseberries. read more...

Caviar - heavenly pearls - 17 Jan 2010

Poaching at extreme levels along with the effects of pollution have forced a moratorium on the import of caviar from the Caspian Sea. But U.S. caviar makes a good alternative. read more...

Russian dumplings & more - 17 Jan 2010

The 'babushkas' (grandmothers) of Europe's far northern climes have long been famous for their home-cooking of sustaining, comforting dumplings, and more. read more...

Russian dairy products - 17 Jan 2010

Tvorog is a Russian cream cheese that makes a sweet alternative to mascarpone, but thicker. And to expand your dairy knowledge, look for ryazhanka and prostokvasha. read more...

Russian Gourmet - 14 Jan 2010

Four years ago, Russian Gourmet set up just off the Rockville Pike on Nicholson Lane, behind the Exxon station and in front of Barry's Magic. Perhaps Barry waved a wand in the little market's direction. Because now there are five of them. read more...

Nosh Notes: Domku Bar and Cafe - 8 Jan 2010

Fed up with diners serving burgers and steaks and hot dawgs? Looking for a change? (This recommendation is not strictly a market - though if you got your food to go it would qualify - but a suggestion for winter warming food.) Visit Kera Carpenter and she'll introduce you to a neighborhood not known for restaurants as well as an unfamiliar cuisine: Eastern European food, in...Petworth! She's the owner chef of Domku Bar and Cafe. read more...

Fil mjolk - what is it? - 7 Jan 2010

Swedish fil mjolk is a yogurt drink not unlike Russian kefir that's very good for you and not difficult to make yourself. read more...

New Year celebrations - something different & where to buy it - 21 Dec 2009

Want to spice up your New Year festivities? Try one of the traditions from another part of the world. read more...

Christmas - dreaming of a different one & where to buy the ingredients - 9 Dec 2009

"Christmas comes but once a year and when it comes it brings..." Uncle George (who'll take over the single malt whiskey if no-one stops him), Aunt Mavis (who's just decided to turn vegetarian), and all their dreadful children. It's enough to drive you crackers.

Give Christmas a new sparkle and celebrate someone else's - with Britain's Christmas crackers, Italy's Omino di Neve, Switzerland's Zimststerne, Jamaica's West Indian Black Cake and more... read more...

Mushrooms - fall favorites - 21 Oct 2009

As fall arrives in Russia, Poland, Germany, Italy and France, the woods rustle with mushroom hunters. Within days of a rainfall, the undergrowth will be popping with delicious free food. Take care, though, that you know what you're picking. I read a Russian news agency report when I was a Moscow correspondent that a particular mushroom was now officially edible, so long as you boiled it once, tossed away the water, boiled it again in a fresh supply, jettisoned that, then fried it in butter. Which by my reckoning made at least three very sick testers before they found the safe formula. read more...

Polish Delis in NJ - 1 Jul 2009

The Kielbasa Factory in Rockville MD is the area's only serious market (correct me if I'm wrong) for Polish specialties. But there's a huge Polish community in New Jersey. So, since this is a time of year when we pile into our cars for beaches north and south, here are some sources you might be driving by with your lilos and towels. Or you could order by phone... read more...

Ice creams & gelati - 17 Jun 2009

In Russia, even in the depths of winter, queues of people form around the ice-cream carts stationed on street corners and down the iced-over paths of Moscow's Gorki Park. The world over, it's a seductive cold comfort. read more...

German Gourmet - 18 Feb 2009

Paying a visit to The German Gourmet is almost like going to the doctor. The assistants behind the counter wear crisp white jackets, they serve you with efficient civility, and move you through as fast as they can. read more...

Fish: Whiskey Cured Salmon Gravlox - 1 Oct 2008

This recipe from Michael Santoro, chef de cuisine at The Blue Duck Tavern, is really simple to accomplish and impressive to serve. Be sure to go over the flesh of the salmon with your fingers and a pair of tweezers to winkle out any tiny bones. By the way, the difference between "Whisky" and "Whiskey"? The former is the Scottish spelling, the latter the Irish. read more...

Stella's Bakery - one of my favorites - 19 Jul 2008

Stella's Bakery is a bakery of European pastries, cakes and breads that's one of the best in the area. read more...

Mushrooms - mycological mysteries - 17 May 2008

Anyone living within easy access of forests across Russia, Poland, Finland and Northern Europe will know about mushroom hunts. As soon as the leaves are on the ground, people creep silently in the early morning through the undergrowth, reluctant to give their position away lest other hunters discover where they have made their finds of wonderful and exotic mushrooms.

More and more unusual mushrooms are reaching Washington's supermarkets and farmers' markets. But what are they? And what to do with them? read more...

Far North food web sites - 29 Apr 2008

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The Kielbasa Factory - one of my favorite markets - 27 Mar 2008

The Kielbasa Factory is a fine replacement for the much missed Polonetz Gourmet. And despite its name it sells good Polish doughnuts, a denser version of the ones we're familiar with. Krystyna Ahrens opened the deli just after Thanksgiving in 2007. Now the place is packed. read more...

European Delight - one of my favorite markets - 21 Mar 2008

There's been a name change, along with a change in management, at European Bazaar, the source for Russian produce on the Rockville Pike. It's now called European Delight. Nothing else has changed - if anything, there's more. The choice of charcuterie in the meat counter is remarkable, from head cheese to a huge range of salamis, keilbasa, moskovskaya and other sausages. And the selection of smoked and dried fish is also good, with different smoked salmons, sturgeon, smelts, selyodka and whitefish prominent. read more...

Scandinavian specialties - 27 Nov 2007

Here are a few suggestions of where to find some Scandinavian treats aside from fish. read more...

A whacky ambition: to cook like Cambell's and Co.
It may be sacrilege to say so, but I did have a moment's wonder at Julie Powell dedicating a whole year to cooking out Julia Childs. Life is surely too short. But I admired her staying power. Most cookbooks contain only a handful of recipes you actually want to tackle - though heaven forfend that I should level this criticism towards Mastering the Art of French Cookery.

Anyway, here's someone who really slackened my jaw. Meet Todd Wilbur, who spends his time to trying to recreate food made by the industrial giants. He wants to cook Krispy Kremes just like the factory. He wants to clone Big Macs, Yoo Hoo chocolate drinks, and dozens more junk foods, to taste just like the real (or unreal) McKoy.
Read Chef Profile...
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