Meat
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A festive 'Special': Foie Gras Creme Caramel - 12 Dec 2011
This is one of those glamorous recipes you pay a fortune for in high end restaurants which, according to Christophe and Michelle Poteaux, owners and chefs of Bastille, who make it, turns out not to be too difficult to do. (And no objections to the foie gras, if you please, until you address how battery chickens that are eaten far more frequently are raised.) read more...
Foie gras and confits - 6 Nov 2011
I've just come across this video of Dan Barber of the Blue Hill Farm complex and restaurant in upstate New York. Please give it a look, whether you're a foie gras fan or violently opposed. read more...
Barbecuing - do you smoke? - 8 Aug 2011
Barbecue is not just a grilling technique, it's a whole philosophy. (And, some women might say, an excuse for men to get out of cooking at any other time of year.) read more...
José Andrés cooks paella on a barbecue - 8 Aug 2011
José Andrés makes paella on his barbecue grill. Okay, so he's a multi-restaurant owner and chef. But he thinks you can do it too. Here is a front row seat at his home-based demonstration. read more...
Pork pig out - 8 Apr 2011
I can sometimes surprise myself with a desparate pork craving. I never have one for lamb or beef.
I'm exceptionally distressed that pork roasts in the US aren't sold with skin to make crackling unless you go to one of DC's excellent-but-few-and-far-between proper butchers. But even if they won't get 'scratchings', similar thinkers can stuff themselves with organic pork from Maryland's Dorsey Farms on Saturday 16 April. read more...
Roast Saddle of Rabbit - 4 Feb 2011
This is the Year of the Rabbit. Go to a decent butcher and order some saddle to make this celebratory dish. read more...
Asian Marinade Hickory Grilled New York Strip - 26 Jan 2011
Here's a quick-cooked dish that gives an Asian twist to a marinade for grilled beef. The recipe came from Phet Schwader when he was chef de cuisine at BLT Steak and brings a fresh zing to taste buds that can feel a bit flat at this time of year. read more...
Breakfasts - a good start - 20 Jan 2011
Mom always said you should start the day with a good breakfast. You know she's right. But if you can't face a bowl of cardboard-tasting, horsestall-looking granola, the nations of the world offer other options. And take a look at this week's blog for an update on whether a big (as opposed to your Mom's idea of a 'good') breakfast is such a good idea. read more...
Slow Braised Beef Short Ribs - 15 Dec 2010
Who ever says 'No' to a comforting dish of slow-cooked beef packed with flavor falling off bones? In this in-between turkey feasts period when the weather gets colder and colder, reach for this recipe from Brian McBride, chef of The Blue Duck Tavern. read more...
Let's Meat on the Avenue - one of my favorites - 23 Nov 2010
Let's Meat on the Avenue is always adding interesting items to its stock. If kangaroo meat tickles your fancy, here's your place. Me, I prefer veal osso buco, which here comes from free range beasts scampering about in Canada. But Steve Gatward, the butcher-owner, also stocks milk from Trickling Springs Creamery and rich Amish butter. Try him for a flavorsome and happy festive turkey. read more...
Blood sausage - you'd really eat that? - 15 Oct 2010
Blood pudding - France's boudin, Britain's black pudding and the morcilla of Latin America - has become a favorite among area chefs. Let's hope it can outlive this unexpected status as a fashionable ingredient.
Or if you just want the plain fresh blood (Hallowe'en's coming...), I know where to buy it. Do you want to? read more...
Buffalo & Bison - 15 Oct 2010
Make your autumn stews or last warm-days grilled burgers out of a different kind of meat. Being less fatty, buffalo is a lot healthier than beef. Cook it slowly in a heavy red wine, a handful of crushed juniper berries and root vegetables, and you can almost pretend you're eating venison. And pretend you bagged it yourself...after all, it is hunting season. read more...
Starters: Chopped Organic Chicken Livers - 17 Jun 2010
Okay. This is not the most photogenic way to present a chicken liver pate that is wonderful in summer with a crusty baguette. But make it. It's easy and delicious. Daniel Bortnick, chef of Firefly, gives this Jewish classic a contemporary twist with apple. Make it a day or two ahead to mellow the flavors. read more...
Pork or Duck Rillettes - 8 Apr 2010
Rillettes are a South-West-France spread of meats simmered slowly in herbs and wine then shredded and packed into preserving jars to make a rough country paté to eat with good strong bread and a munch of cornichons - those tiny French cucumber pickles that aren't suffocatingly sweet like Bread & Butter pickles. They can be made with pork, rabbit, goose or duck - or a mix of all four. Make them in quantity and pot them up in Le Parfait kilner jars or Mason jars and you'll have an instant treat for unexpected friends any time of year... read more...
How to cook prime rib - 24 Nov 2009
Jason Murphy, executive chef of BlackFinn, cooks his prime rib this salt-packed way to make it what he says is the best in town. His recipe is adapted from an Old Steamship Cookbook and works with a 3-pound or a 15-pound cut, to produce a roast that's delicious hot from the oven or sliced cold for sandwiches. read more...
Ibérico Pork comes to town - 22 Jul 2009
At last it's happened! The capital can experience some of the world's best pork. Ibérico de Bellota pork is available at Wagshal's and Jaleo. This is pork meat that comes from the same acorn-fed pigs that produce that heavenly Ibérico ham I can't get (or afford) enough of. Jose Andres has arranged its exclusive import through Fermin. read more...
Mains: Flemish Beef Stew with Belgian Beer - 24 Jun 2009
Bart Vandaele, owner-chef of Belga Café, says, “Beef stew with beer is a traditional Belgian dish. I love it and it still is one of the most popular dishes in Belgium. You can find it in Belgium in different varieties, because it is typically a dish that every mother cooks her own way." read more...
Nosh Notes: Cuban sandwiches - 10 Jun 2009
Until we're allowed to fly into Havana, we're being deprived of a true Cuban sandwich. There are sandwich bars that trumpet their Cuban sandwiches. But it's hard to find one made with the right bread. But even the not-quite-real-McKoy is a great summer chew for picnics in the park. Here's where to find the close-to-genuine article. read more...
Nosh Notes - My backyard pig roast - 20 May 2009
Thank you for a wonderful feast, Harvey the Pig. Harvey is how Pam Ginsberg, the super-enthusiastic butcher at Wagshals introduced my roast to me when she hauled his carcass out from the back. Getting to know your food takes on a whole new meaning. read more...
Belotta pork coming to Wagshal's! - 22 Apr 2009
Pam Ginsberg, the butcher, with Aaron Fuchs, at Wagshal's, tells me that they are discussing importing exclusively Spain's famous belotta pork at the end of May. read more...
The lunch shift is over and chef Peter Smith, owner of PS 7’s restaurant is surrounded by gin. No, he’s not relaxing over a drink. The gin is in bowls in an pre-formed state. It’s the mash, a mix of herbs and berries and peels and roots that Smith has worked out how to use in his food as flavorings.
Chew On This: Your first 'Duh' of the year...
Eggplant
Baked beans - the musical fruit
Ribollita - wondersoup or wodge?
Yasaman Persian Bakery - one of my favorites
Breads - a good chew
Duck & goose
A festive 'Special': Foie Gras Creme Caramel
Festive presents weird and wacky at World Market
Walnut oil
The perfect Yorkshire pudding
Chew On This: The acai berry diet can only thin your wallet...
The Queen Mum's favorite cake
West Indian Black Cake
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