It seems every country in the world has its portable, pastry-wrapped snack, from England's Cornish Pasty to Jamaica's patties, with tiropitakia from Greece, Indian samosas, Russian pierogi, and pork shui mai buns from China in between.

Bolivia specializes in salteñas, Salvador in pupusas, and the area supports a number of good sources, for these and empanadas:

La Casita Pupuseria & Market, 8214 Piney Branch Rd, Silver Spring, MD, 301 588 6656, serves tamales, pasteles, tacos, enchiladas and a number of main course dishes as well as excellent pupusas.

Julia's Empanadas makes these delicious and varied pastry wrapped goodies, at 2452 18th St NW; 1221 Connecticut Ave (where they also sell them tiny for order-in-advance cocktail parties); 1410 U St, 1000 Vermont Ave.

Havana Breeze, 1401 K St. El Patio, an Argentinian bakery and market at 7968 Washington Bld in Jessup, just this side of Baltimore, 443 755 0385, makes really fine empanadas with good and generous fillings in light flaky pastry, and tortillas.

El Patio also has an authentic Argentine restaurant in Rockville, at 12303 Twinbrook Parkway, 301 231 9225/9226, with folk music a couple of nights a week. The food is good and the local Argentine community often gathers there to watch soccer matches on their big screen TV.

Other South American menus can be found at Pike Pizza, 8417 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring; 4111 Columbia Pike, Arlington

Rinconcito Boliviano, 4824 Boiling Brook Pkwy, Rockville (in the Randolph Hill Shopping Center).

Cecilia's, 2619 Columbia Pike, Arlington

La Copa Restaurante, 5171 Lee Hwy, Arlington

Tutto Bene, 501 N. Randolph St, Arlington

Las Palmas, 5902 N. King's Hwy, Alexandria

San Antonio Bar & Grill, 5177 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads (in the Skyline Mall)

Victor's Grill, 436 S. Washington St, Falls Church El Pike, 6138 Arlington Blvd (in the Willston Shopping Center)

My Bakery & Cafe, 3508 Courtland Dr, Falls Church

Luzmila's Cuisine, 809 W. Broad St, Falls Church