One of the most unpopular fishes, anchovies nevertheless are the culinary equivalent of the Wonderbra. They add not just saltiness but body to every dish they're used in. And if you don't confess, most critics won't know they're there.

Listen to my defence of this pungent little swimmer on NPR's All Things Considered:

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1143340

 

Chef Hisao Abe, who owns Kotobuki on MacArthur Boulevard, learned the art of sushi-making after years of watching, sniffing, tasting.