Proper bacon, not that stuff that leaks puddles of grayish water into the pan, is dry cured. It takes longer than wet-cured bacon, which is the standard supermarket fare, so costs more. But it's worth seeking out for its flavor and that it weighs almost as much cooked as raw, which is not what can be said of the stuff that seeps away into the pan. One of the easier brands to find in general supermarkets is by Nueske.

But there are other bacon-style meats worth cooking with, like pancetta, coppa, and guancale, all from Italy where every part of the pig is used somehow or other. Check them out individually in Ingredients.

Peggy Thompson, chef at DISH, worked as a meeting planner before going to culinary school. Boredom inspired her to start a new career, and through it she found more than just good food.