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Bacon

Proper bacon, not that stuff that leaks puddles of grayish water into the pan, is dry cured. It takes longer than wet-cured bacon, which is the standard supermarket fare, so costs more. But it's worth seeking out for its flavor and that it weighs almost as much cooked as raw, which is not what can be said of the stuff that seeps away into the pan. One of the easier brands to find in general supermarkets is by Nueske, which smokes its meats over applewood. If you can't buy on line.

But there are other bacon-style meats worth cooking with, like pancetta, coppa, and guancale, all from Italy where every part of the pig is used somehow or other. Check them out individually in Ingredients.

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Bacon - 15 Nov 2007

Proper bacon is not that stuff that leaks puddles of grayish water into the pan. Buy the bacon Grant Achatz of Alinea cooks with. read more...

Breakfasts - a good start - 8 Jan 2009

Mom always said you should start the day with a good breakfast. You know she's right. But if you can't face a bowl of cardboard-tasting, horsestall-looking granola, the nations of the world offer other options. read more...

British markets - 24 Jun 2009

When cable TV broadcasts Wimbledon hosting the tennis championships, it's time for a British court-side tea of cucumber sandwiches, strawberries and cream. Which bring on British nostalgia. Missing Marmite? Pork pies? Or Bird's Custard? Need to lift the spirits with a nip of ginger wine? A little Land of Hope and Glory is just behind the doors of these markets. read more...

Chestnuts and chestnut stuffing - 21 Dec 2009

Whether you roast them at an open fire (remembering to stab them with the point of a knife so they don't burst) or include them in a turkey stuffing, chestnuts are a key winter solstice ingredient. read more...

Fish: Roasted Cod with Sauteed and Braised Sunchokes - 8 Apr 2010

Christophe Marque, chef of Cafe du Parc's recipe doesn't have to be limited to the winter season when sunchokes are in the markets. Substitute young potatoes for these gnarled roots and the recipe extends through the year. read more...

Fish: Stir-fried Scallops and Shiitake Mushrooms with Gingered Grits and Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette - 17 Nov 2007

When John Wabeck was chef of Firefly before moving on to New Heights, this was one of his most popular main courses. The Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette, which can be used as a dressing for other things, like a young-spinach salad, may be made ahead. Once you have the ingredients assembled, it's a smooth process to produce the dish. read more...

Pasta: Spaghetti Carbonara - 25 Feb 2009

Spaghetti Carbonara is an Italian classic. Rich and unctuous, it's always a treat to eat and simple to make. Here's the recipe of Massimo de Francesca, chef at Domaso Trattoria. read more...

Starters: Leek and Potato Soup - 27 Oct 2008

Made with simple ingredients, Potage Bonne Femme is one of the great classics of French country cooking. This comforting autumnal soup is the version of David Ashwell, chef of Brasserie Beck. read more...

Tomato Soup with Goat Cheese Flan and Parmesan Sticks - 12 May 2010

This recipe from Robert Wiedmaier, owner-chef of Marcel's and The Tasting Room, is three different elements in one. The Parmesan Sticks could be made alone to serve with cocktails and the Goat Cheese Flans could also become an alternative to the more familiar grilled goat cheese served on a mixed leaf salad. read more...

Two women to watch
There are culinary people whose careers are worth keeping an eye on. On my list of foodies to follow is Janet Cam, one of the restaurant world's really good general managers - warm but professional, with a great wine palate to boot. And she's about to be back on the floor of a new Washington restaurant in whose kitchen you'll find Roberto Donna's once right-hand/left-hand executive chef, Amy Brandwein.
Read Chef Profile...
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