Breads
Not so long ago, the only bread available in Washington came sliced in cellophane packages. Now you can't move for choice among loaves studded with anything from olives, raisins and walnuts, to cheese, tomatoes and herbs. Where to get a good honest loaf?
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Ribollita - wondersoup or wodge? - 1 Jan 2012
This is one of my favorite dishes - a wonderful peasant soup that uses up stale bread to turn a winter minestrone (that's the kale in it) into a full scale comfort meal. It's even better if you keep a day before you eat it. read more...
Breads - a good chew - 1 Jan 2012
Not so long ago, the only bread available in Washington came sliced in cellophane packages. Now you can't move for choice among breads studded with everything from olives to cheese. But where can you get a plain brown loaf? read more...
Bread-making with natural yeast - 10 Jul 2011
eatWashingtonian Zora Margolis has winkled out of Bethesda home bread-baker Peter Helffrich his recipe for making his own 'wild' yeast. Read her feature in Flavor magazine then bake his no-knead loaf. read more...
Soda bread - 14 Mar 2011
I know I gave this recipe recently. But now's the week for Irish Soda Bread. It's the world's easiest, fastest loaf to make - no proving, no hanging about. Bought from local bakeries it's often (wrongly) a yeast-based confection of sweet dough studded with raisins. Here is EatWashingtonian Elisabeth Nicholson's authentic recipe, from the Tyrone Guthrie artsplace in Co. Monaghan, which she says is "DEAD easy". read more...
Bread flour unscrambled - 10 Feb 2011
Which flour bakes the best bread? First, know that a grain of wheat has three parts: the endosperm which is the central source of the starch, accounting for 85 percent of the grain. Next to it lies the germ, accounting for only 2 percent. But it's the most positive element. It's the 'seed' that grows new wheat plants and it contains most of the whole grain's protein, vitamins and oil. Plus, pretty much all the flavor lies in the germ. Both of these are covered by the protective outer layer of bran. read more...
Breakfasts - a good start - 20 Jan 2011
Mom always said you should start the day with a good breakfast. You know she's right. But if you can't face a bowl of cardboard-tasting, horsestall-looking granola, the nations of the world offer other options. And take a look at this week's blog for an update on whether a big (as opposed to your Mom's idea of a 'good') breakfast is such a good idea. read more...
Amphora Bakery - one of my favorites - 11 Nov 2010
For sweeth-tooth treats, it's hard to beat Amphora Bakery for whimsically decorated cakes, cupcakes and cookies. And for delicious European patisseries, baked goods and breads of all sorts. read more...
Gazpacho - 28 Jul 2010
Terri Cutrino, executive chef of Cafe Atlantico's' recipe for that refreshing and pretty soup perfect for summer soup which you can prepare well ahead of sitting down to eat it. read more...
Baguettes the French like - 2 Jun 2010
With grilling and picnic weather now in, a meal al fresco can be made or broken by your choice of bread. A bad baguette is almost as bad as that squish-flat-between-forefinger-and-thumb Kleenex bread. But there are some good ones around. read more...
Lentils & dhals unravelled - 25 Mar 2010
We're at the point, as Michael Pollan keeps reminding us, where raising meat is becoming unsustainable and depriving the rest of the world of food. Across the Mediterranean region, through the Middle East on to India, local cooks use grains and pulses for much of their protein.
We should learn from this - they're delicious, and cheap. But which dhals are which? And which lentils, pulses and dhals are best for which dish? read more...
Shiraz Grocery - 2 Mar 2010
The owner of this modest market in Rockville City Center presents himself as Marlboro Man of the Middle East. He's behind the till in a stetson, with flourishing face hair. He's got the sullen attitude of Clint Eastwood in 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly' days down pat. Barely engaging in dialogue, he wants to know if you appreciate that the can of Sahadi Coffee you want to buy is of the powdered kind to brew in a tiny brass pot, not to be dumped in a cafetiere. If you're feeling at one with the cosmos, you might opt to construe this as considerate, not obstructive. read more...
Starters: Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fonduta - 21 Oct 2009
When Stephen Scott was chef at Zola, he served this Fonduta as an appetizer. But it makes a great Sunday supper for two served with a crisp green salad in front of a favorite TV movie. And if you can't get hold of every type, use what's available. read more...
Saint Michel Bakery - one of my favorites - 8 Jul 2009
I've been mourning the deterioration in quality of Bonaparte Bakery's baguettes. They've lost that balance between crustiness and crumbiness and Wagshal's, where I go to buy them, no longer stocks their ficelles which I preferred to the baguettes. I don't know if that means that Bonaparte's doesn't bake them any more. But at any rate, I don't mind too much. I've discovered a proper French bakery - Saint Michel Bakery, owned by a proper French baker, Bertrand Houlier. read more...
Desssert: Pain du Mom with Crème Anglaise - 1 Jul 2009
"My mom came up with this recipe," says John MacPherson, owner-chef of the Foster Harris House (so, Francophones, don't get picky about the grammar), "and has served it for some 20 years. Of course the serving size at my mom's is five times as big as we serve at the Foster Harris House, but a little goes a long way with this decadent breakfast dessert." read more...
Alternatives to pita bread - 1 Jul 2009
Looking for an alternative to pita? There are plenty. read more...
Polish Delis in NJ - 1 Jul 2009
The Kielbasa Factory in Rockville MD is the area's only serious market (correct me if I'm wrong) for Polish specialties. But there's a huge Polish community in New Jersey. So, since this is a time of year when we pile into our cars for beaches north and south, here are some sources you might be driving by with your lilos and towels. Or you could order by phone... read more...
Nosh Notes: Cuban sandwiches - 10 Jun 2009
Until we're allowed to fly into Havana, we're being deprived of a true Cuban sandwich. There are sandwich bars that trumpet their Cuban sandwiches. But it's hard to find one made with the right bread. But even the not-quite-real-McKoy is a great summer chew for picnics in the park. Here's where to find the close-to-genuine article. read more...
Marmite madness - 4 Mar 2009
Marmite is a shiny tar-like spread made out of the residues that come from brewing beer. Brits love it. read more...
Desserts: Pumpernickel ice cream - 3 Feb 2009
This rich ice cream from RJ Cooper III, chef de cuisine of Vidalia, couldn't be easier or faster to make. Or more sophisticated to eat. read more...
Breads Unlimited - one of my favorites - 2 Dec 2008
No bakery does brown bread like Breads Unlimited. Whole Foods' brown loaves taste packed with unnecessary sugar. Firehook's are extremely dense. Heidelberg Bakery's brown bread is excellent - if you want a German or Northern European loaf. If you just want a gooey, chewy bread that makes about the best toast in town, head to Breads Unlimited.
It's in the Bradley Shopping Center on Arlington Road in Bethesda. The strip may look unprepossessing, but it's home to two of the Washington area's best treasures: Bruce Variety and Strosneider's. read more...
The lunch shift is over and chef Peter Smith, owner of PS 7’s restaurant is surrounded by gin. No, he’s not relaxing over a drink. The gin is in bowls in an pre-formed state. It’s the mash, a mix of herbs and berries and peels and roots that Smith has worked out how to use in his food as flavorings.
Chew On This: Your first 'Duh' of the year...
Eggplant
Baked beans - the musical fruit
Ribollita - wondersoup or wodge?
Yasaman Persian Bakery - one of my favorites
Breads - a good chew
Duck & goose
A festive 'Special': Foie Gras Creme Caramel
Festive presents weird and wacky at World Market
Walnut oil
The perfect Yorkshire pudding
Chew On This: The acai berry diet can only thin your wallet...
The Queen Mum's favorite cake
West Indian Black Cake
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