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Cheeses

It's getting easier and easier to find good cheese in the area. People who care deeply about their cheese have opened up shops to sell the best of it from home and abroad in prime condition. Even some supermarkets are building fine cheese counters.

Still, there are limits to what they can stock. The FDA prohibits the import and sale of raw milk cheeses under 60 days old, to the chagrin of Europeans. Trying to protect us from the very real ravages of E.coli and other bacteria means we're unable to taste some real gems from other countries.

Are the French and Italians falling like flies from their consumption of young unpasteurized milk cheeses? Click this link to my article for The National Interest and find out where the dangers really lie.

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A & H Gourmet and Seafood Market - one of my favorite markets - 11 Mar 2009

There was a time when A & H Gourmet and Seafood Market was just plain A & H Seafood Market. And plain it was. While it had fresh fish flown in from Portugal once a week, it was a little dark and dingy. You wouldn't recognize what ex-Taberna del Alabardero executive chef, Santi Zabaleta, has done to the place. read more...

Apples - a Magnolia a day... - 2 Sep 2009

While some supermarkets are becoming a little more adventurous in their selection of apples, there are many more interesting varieties to be had than the Goldens and Granny Smiths out there. Thomas Jefferson could have told you that...

Here are some, with how they taste, and where to pick them. read more...

British markets - 24 Jun 2009

When cable TV broadcasts Wimbledon hosting the tennis championships, it's time for a British court-side tea of cucumber sandwiches, strawberries and cream. Which bring on British nostalgia. Missing Marmite? Pork pies? Or Bird's Custard? Need to lift the spirits with a nip of ginger wine? A little Land of Hope and Glory is just behind the doors of these markets. read more...

Cheese: how good for you is it? - 13 May 2010

Summer time and the cheeses are easy - to offer, to eat. With a salad or a dish of ripe tomatoes (from a farmer, please, not one of those red golf balls from the supermarket). But for those who are conscious of their waistlines, which cheese to chose? Most cheeses are good for protein and calcium. But some are higher in calories than others. Here's a list from low to high. read more...

Cheeses unpasteurized - forbidden gems & others - 6 Nov 2007

The FDA prohibits the import and sale of raw milk cheeses under 60 days old, to the chagrin of Europeans. Trying to protect us from the very real ravages of E.coli and other bacteria means we're unable to taste some real gems from other countries.

Are the French and Italians falling like flies from their consumption of young unpasteurized milk cheeses? Click the link to my article for The National Interest and find out where the dangers really lie. read more...

Drew Trautmann - Chef of Sonoma Restaurant & Wine Bar - 15 Nov 2007

Drew Trautmann focuses on locally sourced foods at Sonoma Restaurant & Wine Bar in a fashion that reflects the West Coast sensibilities of his dining room and bar. read more...

Eastern Market - 4 Nov 2008

Eastern Market has recovered after the fire that devastated it in spring 2007. But while finishing touches are put to the original brick building, you'll find it in an extensive marquee opposite.

It's like a street farmers' market, but established long before anyone had head the word farmers' market in the U.S. and open every day of the week and under cover - though it also has a variety of farmers' market stalls outside. Come here for a proper butcher, fish and cheesemonger. read more...

Farmers' markets - food for health and flavor - 11 May 2008

Spring is here and farmers' markets are about to blossom on the streets of the capital. We need to support local farmers. They're doing a tough job to bring us food that's healthy and full of flavor. If we want to see that kind of respect from regular supermarkets when they decide what to stock, they need to notice the sales they're missing when we shop for local produce. Then they might be more encouraged to shop locally, too... read more...

Feta cheese - 24 Jun 2009

In summer, with real tomatoes arriving in stores, Greek salad comes into its own. Horiatiki salata, country salad, is a compilation of quarters of tomato, thick slices of peeled cucumber and thinner slices of red onion, a handful of black olives and chunks of feta, drizzled with a good green olive oil. (Strictly speaking, the tomatoes provide the acid replacement for vinegar.)

Feta is often overlooked as a cheese. But with its relatively low fat content and range of flavor from mild to forceful, it's worth paying it some attention. True feta cheese, low-fat and healthy, is a far cry from sour, salty and week-old-socks stinking (some would say vomit stenching) plastic-packaged cheese from supermarket dairy aisles. read more...

Figs - fresh - 15 Nov 2007

One of the best treats of the fall, they don't come cheap. So it's a disappointment when you open your wrapped box and find some of them rotten. read more...

Italian delicatessens - 26 Nov 2007

The area is not short on good Italian delicatessens. read more...

Mains: Gorgonzola Soufflé - 15 Dec 2007

Drew Trautmann, Chef of Sonoma Restaurant & Wine Bar's recipe - just what you need when you've had too much festive fare. read more...

Mozzarella with the mostest - 15 Apr 2010

There's mozzarella and mozzarella. (And then there's bufala mozzarella, made in the authentic fashion of Southern Italy from buffalo milk.) read more...

Parmigiano-Reggiano & Grana Padano - 11 Nov 2007

Never buy 'Parmesan' ready grated in those cardboard tubes. It tastes like vomit. read more...

Pears - eating & cooking - 27 Nov 2007

Pears aren't limited to the Conference and the Bosc. read more...

Portuguese delicatessens - 27 Nov 2007

There are a number of markets that are favorites with people shopping for Portuguese ingredients. But they sell a wider range of European products, too. read more...

Quince - 4 Nov 2009

Quince season is short, so run out to a Middle Eastern market like Yekta or an Asian market like H Mart or Le Market, and pick out some of these yellow, pear-like and scented fruits to chop into a rough-on-the-tongue stewed puree or to make membrillo, the Spanish paste to eat with Manchego or Cheddar cheese, or for an exquisite translucent coral pink jelly to go with cold meats. read more...

Ricotta - 21 Nov 2007

Not so long ago in Italy, ricotta was delivered twice a day along with the milk. read more...

Russian Gourmet - 14 Jan 2010

Four years ago, Russian Gourmet set up just off the Rockville Pike on Nicholson Lane, behind the Exxon station and in front of Barry's Magic. Perhaps Barry waved a wand in the little market's direction. Because now there are five of them. read more...

South Mountain Creamery - one of my favorites - 2 Jul 2009

Not strictly speaking a market, because you don't go to it, it comes to you. But South Mountain Creamery is worth knowing about. The Sowers and Brusco families behind it deliver farm-fresh ice cold milk in the old fashioned glass bottles direct to the cooler on your doorstep - if you're not in to take collection personally.

You put your order in on-line. And it's not just for milk. read more...

Two women to watch
There are culinary people whose careers are worth keeping an eye on. On my list of foodies to follow is Janet Cam, one of the restaurant world's really good general managers - warm but professional, with a great wine palate to boot. And she's about to be back on the floor of a new Washington restaurant in whose kitchen you'll find Roberto Donna's once right-hand/left-hand executive chef, Amy Brandwein.
Read Chef Profile...
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