In 2007, Amy Brandwein, new chef de cuisine at fyve was nominated Rising Culinary Star for a RAMMY, the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington awards. Not bad for someone who only started cooking professionally aged 30. fyve – yep,  I’m afraid that’s how it’s spelt – is the refurbished restaurant of the Ritz Carlton in Pentagon City. Brandwein moved in, turned it around with an entirely fresh crew and a completely revamped menu inside four months.

Once upon a time, she was a political researcher at a big law firm, attending hearings on the Hill. “It got to the point where I thought, I like this, but Washington is pretty cut throat. I really don’t want to do it any more.”

She sat back to figure out what she did want to do. “I always thought cooking was cool and fun.” So she took herself off to l’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg. And switched pulling hours on the Hill for working her feet off in restaurants. “You have to work hard in any profession.” From that moment, if her husband or parents want to see her, they have to come to her restaurant. “My husband’s really super tough,” she says appreciatively.

Her mother is less accepting. She wasn’t a particularly good cook, Brandwein says. “She tried, but she was a working mom. I learned a lot of things from her but cooking wasn’t one of them. But I definitely had a strong women’s role model. My dad was a really good home cook. He’s how I really got started with cooking.”

After graduating from l’Academie, Brandwein joined Roberto Donna, then owner-chef of Galileo, and went through a second training - in fine Italian dining. When she told him she wanted to do a stage in Italy, he was puzzled. Do a stage? he asked. For what reason? Surely she was learning all she needed to know from him.

As it was, he did take her over for a couple of weeks to meet chefs. “The product was impeccable,” Brandwein remembers. She’s not sure she can duplicate that quality in the States. “I drive my purchasing person crazy. I like produce to be from local farmers so it’s really fresh. Most produce comes from Path Valley purveyors in Pennsylvania. I’ve worked with them a very long time. Otherwise, I have to use regular purveyors.”

If you offered her $500 and an airline ticket to eat at any great restaurant in the world, she says she’d rather eat several really good meals than one expensive one and would probably fly to Italy and spend her money in trattorias and osterias.

Over the course of eight years with Donna she worked her way up the culinary ladder, becoming executive chef at Galileo and at his next venture, Bebo Trattoria. Then she decided she needed to broaden her experience. “It’s really important. You have to consider, what do you have to offer. I thought, I have fine dining. I’m an expert in Italian food at this point. A huge part of the culinary world is hotel. And I love to open restaurants.” Which she had done with Donna when he went from Galileo to Bebo Trattoria.

Her admiration for him is deep. Now that she’s in charge of her own operation, she’s even more appreciative of what it took to run his restaurants. “He had to build up a clientele over a 20 year period. His customers are familiar with his cuisine.” Brandwein, though, is starting from the beginning, and introducing an adventurous menu. “I’m in the process of educating our customers. I want to show them different things.” Like her appetizers of Crispy Veal Sweetbreads served with Lemon Capers, and Grilled Octopus that comes with Yukon Gold Potato, Black Olives, Sun Dried Cherry Tomato. Or her main course Cod that she serves with Tomato Cilantro Broth and Cumin and calls Amy’s Purse, or Pennsylvania Rabbit and Black Eyed Peas.

“I want to stay true to what I do. I like taking original and regional ingredients and doing interesting things with them. Rabbit in the beginning was a tough sell. But now it’s really taking off. Sweetbreads are not a top seller but I continue to offer them. When you establish trust they will try it. I credit Roberto Donna with that: he’s always interested in educating the customer.”

It’s a whole new approach for the hotel, used to repeat local customers and business travelers. She’s after luring in and then luring back the first-time diner. Her approach, she says, is starting to take effect.

She’s had to learn herself – the difference between running an independent restaurant and one that services a hotel. “First off, it’s a 24-hour operation. My other two restaurants were closed for breakfast. There’s always something happening here. I didn’t realize how much there was going to be of an impact. It’s great when you can be closed for breakfast. Your first service is 11.30. So you come in at nine. Here the breakfast crew is in at 6 a.m. They work to 2.30. Even if I’m not here that early, it’s still my staff. I’m responsible for what happens.”


fyve is located in the Ritz-Carlton, 1250 South Hayes St, Arlington (703 415 5000; fyve) Main courses cost from $ 22 to $38.